Baha’i House of Worship

A smiling woman with short curly braids wearing a brightly patterned dress stood facing backwards towards the congregation, carefully directing the choir in the two pews in front of her. Women sat in the front row, while men sat in the back row singing the bass part. The melody sounded familiar, a variation on one of the hymns that I used to sing in school … Continue reading Baha’i House of Worship

Camels for Peace

There’s a reasonable amount of arrogance¬†dished out by travellers you meet on the road. They tell you the number of counties they’ve ‘done’, the height of things they’ve jumped off, the remoteness of the tribes they’ve visited, and generally the number of things they’ve ticked off an arbitrary list. How far, how fast, how many. By chance we met a man who would humble them … Continue reading Camels for Peace

Local guide, Zimbabwe

“I used to be a guide. I showed them the rock where the cheetah sleeps” he said, his eyes pleading for something but I wasn’t quite sure what. “I was a guide for the animals, but not anymore, not since they stopped coming here”. Again his eyes widened as they desperately searched my face for something, perhaps just an acknowledgement that he was once useful. … Continue reading Local guide, Zimbabwe

Double Dutch

Amsterdam is a small sheep farming town in Mpumalanga, South Africa, lying next to the border with Swaziland. Evidently this is not the Amsterdam we are currently in. Amsterdam, Netherlands also serves as a convenient stop over on the way to its former colonial outpost. At the Gollem bar, just off Spuistraat, we enjoyed some La Chouffe beer and what amounted to a wheel and … Continue reading Double Dutch